The beginning of this century has seen a dramatic shift in bar trends. First there was the flair bartender, using pre-fab mixers to flip and toss sweet drinks that often tasted like the sun screen left behind at the tanning booth. Then came the glorious return of fresh ingredients and pre-Prohibition nostalgia. But this sometimes resulted in be-vested barkeeps building cocktails with too many ingredients and enough tinctures to confuse a licensed pharmacist. It’s been fashionable for these to be consumed in hidden locations so exclusive they can make one forget that drinking is supposed to be fun.

The latest shift is much more customer-oriented. As drinkers declare their allegiance to certain spirits, bars are opening with a single-category focus.

New York City has been leading the trend. Some bars not only showcase one type of spirit, but also distinguish themselves within each subgroup.

Smokehouse Cocktail at Dram Photo Courtesy Dram, Mountainbrook, Alabama