The sake cocktail could be seen as the sad stepchild of the real thing, a stand-in served only while a restaurant awaits a hard-liquor license. Purists will tell you it's best to avoid them altogether, anyway; if you're looking for a sake fix, they say, the only acceptable route is to sip it straight.

Mixologist A.J. Rathbun begs to differ. In his treatise on wine-based cocktails, Rathbun offers up a lovely array of concoctions that make use of the rich, clean, citrus-inflected flavors of extra dry sake. Don't be afraid to experiment with sake in your favorite recipes, especially as a lower-alcohol replacement for other clear spirits.