Confessionally, it’s always a touch disheartening when I realize just how integrated, how conglomerated global spirits are. Almost every time I read up on a favorite idiosyncratic and apparently "craft" bottle, I find a flowchart of holding companies and the companies that hold holding companies, a family tree that usually includes some pretty questionable and decidedly un-craft cousins. And I get sad.

This is an unfair reaction, of course. We don’t choose our families, first, and also how else would these things find us? I’m a globalist, I know that. It’s just somehow more fun to believe in the local, the lone, the underdog.